Friday, September 19, 2008

Last In-town Update?

Compositions went off really well last night. Stayed up very late with the classmates; consequently am very tired (and only updating at all because the computer is leaving shortly). May finally make it out to Potsdam this afternoon (or maybe I'll just skip it and sleep/pack...). Anyway, I'll try to update again if I get some internet access. Otherwise, love to all the people back home and I'll see you Monday (or at some point shortly thereafter).

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Beethoven, Neuroscience, and Die Ritters des Kokonuss

Mittwoch 10. September 2008
Morning lecture from a grad student in the neuroscience department at Humboldt; discussed brain activity in decision-making. Fairly interesting, though not too technically rigorous.
Afternoon workshop with a modern dance professor. I'm almost as uncoordinated at throwing invisible objects as real ones. I also fail at clapping in a timely manner.
Evening performance of Beethoven's "Fidelio" at the Staatsoper. Shorter than the Wagner, but just as well done (beautiful singing! fairly modern costume, but of recognizable archetypes). And, since it was a comedy, the plot was both easy to understand and difficult (lots of crossed love interest, some secret identities, and the villians get their comeuppance... on the other hand determining who exactly was in love with/conspiring against/secretly married to whom at any given time was nigh on impossible).

Dienstag 9. September 2008
Missed the afternoon grafitti gallery tour, as I tried to attend an early afternoon swing event. Bar Speakeasy (over in Prenzlaurerberg). It was a cool (if small) venue, but there was no one dancing (only 6 people total anyway), and the only real option seemed to be drinking beer, which held no appeal to me.

Also, have watched Monty Python in German and English a bit too often. At least, enough to notice differences between the audio tracks and subtitles. The Swedish subtitles at the beginning go quite well with the German ones. Still need to check out the Turkish subtitles. "What a strange person"="O! A Parisian!" <3 Sir Galahad.

Church-hopping, Tea, and Trekking Though Kreuzburg

Still working backwards...

Sontag 14. September 2008
Attended mass at St. Hedwig's Cathedral with Mary Grace. Then visited Marienkirche and Nikolaikirche. Very pretty medieval churches. Both undergoing renovation; St. Mary's has lots of 17th century funeral markers, very detailed mosiacs, and lovely painted icons. Seems to still be a functioning church (with bonus soup-kitchen), and sports a lovely organ (there seemed to be a small concert of sort while we were there). We couldn't actually enter the St. Nicolas church, but we did get to walk around it. There was a neat fountain, and the re-buildt neighborhood mimics its medieval original (mostly in the narrow streets and hanging signboards).
Tried to go dancing in the afternoon. Ended up walking Urbanstrasse from Hallesches Tor back to Schonleinsrasse without finding #21. Berlin-area dance venues seem to have +5 racial bonus to hide checks (or is that a class feature? Seattle ones only have +2).

Samstag 13. September 2008
Ich hatte Erkaltung gehabt. Es gefaellt mir nicht. Slept late; spent the day resting. Tried to go dancing in the evening. Eventually found the ballroom over on Mehringdamm; the number was quite evident, steps from the subway station--the trick seemed to be knowing that it was through the unmarked walkway, on the other side of the courtyard, and up 5 flights of stairs (here, at least, there was paper notice indicating the floor number). For all that, the nice venue was exclusively populated with couples, and I gave it up for lost immediately; I was a bit too frustrated with the Berlin scene at this point to pay the eintritt for another evening of watching other people dance (and this looked to be a close repeat of Bebop: a nice place, but one wholly unwelcoming for me). Spent the evening chatting with Mary Grace about world religions (and how generally awesome Jesuits and Dominicans are).

Freitag 12. September 2008
Turkish market at midday; got some lovely dress fabric.
Went to the antiquities museum in the afternoon; lots of Greek and Egyptian sculpture and pottery. Saw the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti (it looks just like all the pictures you've seen of it, save that the incomplete left eye is a bit more prominent). Didn't get to see the Pergamon Museum though (some sort of special event was going on). Then went to a chocolate shop over by the concert hall, which had lots of yummy-looking things (and very impressive chocolate reproductions of the Reichstag, Brandenburger Tor, and the Titanic.
Attended Bebop Berlin for dancing in the evening; more ballroom than swing (some swing music, yes, but everyone did foxtrot!). Alternation between latin, foxtrot and the ocassional waltz. Absolutely no unpaired dancers, save myself. Did see one dancer attempting to teach his partner 20s Charleston (on a rare song in which the general movement did not prevent such 'non-traveling' dance). Left after an hour or so; my dance shoes didn't touch the floor until I removed them.

Donnerstag 11. September 2008
Didn't set the alarm correctly; overslept and just missed the theatrical workshop at late-morning (which sucks; I wanted to be part of family Faust!). Ended up touring the Berliner Dom instead. It is awesome. Have lots of pictures and short video-clips, of everything from the singing angels at the top of the dome to the Hohenzollern sarcophagi in the crypt (lots of dead kings, dukes, and babies). The high altar is exquisite, likewise the Emperor's staircase (VIPs get very nice private entrances), the main organ (huge and pretty... there's also another, smaller one in the bridal/baptismal chapel), and pretty much everything else. Ok, everything else (no "pretty much" about it).
Saw "Maria Magdelena" at the Gorki theater in the evening. It was very surreal: the costumes (bra? unmatches shoes? the blond guy's whole ensemble?), the staging (gives new meaning to "clinging to mom's skirts"), and even the stage was at odd angles. I understood only snatches of the dialogue, but the actors spoke very clearly, which made things easier. Rachel and I decided to go out to a bar afterward, but then decided that we wanted ice cream instead. Yay for Alexanderplatz's late hours (the San Marco Eis Cafe was still open, with its yummy cheap ice cream).

Pigeons und das U-Bahn

Sorry for the lack of updates (again). It's sort of a contagious situation: harder to get writing when there's always more to write. So, I'll try to take this in manageable portions and actually make some progress.

Donnerstag 18. September 2008
Vlog day! Spent the morning on the U-Bahn (getting lots of video-footage and some sound effects for the composition). Also wandered around Museum Insel und das Lustgarten. Rehearsal in the afternoon: the composition is enjoyable and, in my opinion, coming along quite well. Hints: I eat an apple, dance, and am a pigeon. Make of that what you will.
Went to the musical instrument museum early this evening. It mostly contains harpsicords and other keyboards. Make that, lots of lovely, ornately decorated harpsicords, virginals, spinnets, organs, pianofortes, etc. The oldest one I recall was c. 1618, I think. There were keyboards in tables, church organs and a small spinnet that was also a sewing box. Also, lots of lovely violins (with scrolls made up like human heads and elaborate carved flower motifs); there were some little stringed instruments that folded into wide walking staffs (with pop-out bows). I also saw a lovey dark-wood 19th century bass, which is clearly Sir Barnabus' soulmate. Or maybe an ancestor...
I liked the reed instrument displays (clarinets, oboes, bassethorns, krummhorns, recorders, flues and humongous prehistoric bassoons). The earliest clarinets/bassets were from the late 18th century (just like the Mozart concerto were written for!). Lots of brasses too (including a trumpet encrusted with jewels and a 19th century trombone with floral engravings...and some really old-school bugels/fanfare trumpets).
Dinner at Spaetzle Express again; got a fairly large order of the Suess Nudeln (the cinnamon-roll-but-really-potato-noodle dish). Will make a most excellent breakfast.

Mittwoch 17. September 2008
Composition practice during the day. Reception in the early evening with yummy fruit/cheese things and Apfelsaft. Went to Claerchen's Balhaus for the weekly swing dance. The atmosphere and attendants were much as last time; no routines this time, though I did get a partner dance (finally!). About twice my age, no name given, mostly led 6 count. Overall satisfactory (and first time I haven't had to lead since August!). Did some solo Charleston too (when I could find the space during a non-blues song...it was strange how the floor seemed to fill during the faster songs). There was some amusing Lindy to watch though; mosty just this one guy with really ong blond dreds (his dancing reminded me of Slater's in terms of energy and use of space).

Dienstag 16. September 2008
Cold morning. Should have worn a coat, or, well, pants. 'Tis no longer the time for shorts.
Went to the Schwules Museum in the morning. Saw their temporary exhibit on the lesbian movement in Germany (1970s-present). Determined that the German Lesbian prestige class skils include exotic weapons proficiency (battle axe) and arcane spellcraft. I promise that made sense in context. Unfortunately missed the trip to Babelsberg (film studios) in the afternoon; ended up with a headache, and slept 'til early evening. Started work on the composition late in the evening.

Montag 15. September 2008
Slow day. Slept late and didn't do much. Still a little sick.

Monday, September 8, 2008

No, there aren't any vikings, try another opera...

Saw Wagner's "Tristan und Isolde" last night at the Staatsoper Berlin. The opera house is on Unter den Linden, right across from Humboldt (on Bebelplatz adjacent to St. Hedwig's Cathedral). It's gorgeous. I only got a few pictures inside (my camera died again due to its battery-eating habit), but it's really nice--all done up in marble with inset mirrors, lots of gilt trim, and shiny candlabras. The view from the second tier (yay cheap students tickets!) was quite good (that was not sarcasm; the actual nosebleed seats were in the back of the 3rd tier, we were just left of center in the second row of the second tier).
The opera itself ran about 5 hours with 2 intermissions. The singing was superb (and I applaud the stamina of all the musicians, wow). The costumer has my unending praise (frockcoats totally need to come back in style, and I also want a cool fantasy-medieval dress like Isolde's); and the set design rocked. it consisted of a vaguely gothic graveyard backdrop (headstones for the mostpart), with a large fallen angel scupture serving as the main setpiece. The angel was fallen forward with face in her hands, one wing spread low to the ground, the other aloft but mangled, with a cascade of torn feathers. The singers were using the statue to make all the level changes for the scenes (the boat in Act I, a castle rampart in Act II, Tristan's father's house in Act III), and it really set the tone without being particuarly literal.

And, for the record, the fat lady with a horned helmet ends other Wagner operas, not this one.

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Since last time: Pigeons, Communists, and a tribute to Martha Graham...

Sorry for not writing; I've been meaning to since Wednesday, but (evidently) have not. So, let's see what I remember:

Dienstag, 2 September
Class visit to the Kreuzburg Turkish soccer club. Had tea with the club founder, a nice Turkdeutsch man who didn't speak much English (Toby translated for the most part; I was able to understand some of the German however, which made me very happy). Apparently, racism is still alive, especially in the former East Germany. :( Also, apparently, the Turkish soccer cub has been doing very well. :) Their top team is in the 2nd league, if I recall correctly (they have 4 adult teams and 19 youth teams, and their 1st men's team is either in the 1st or 2nd league, ie semi-professional). We then visited a mosque (and had a nice Islam Q&A session with the tour guide). It was a lot like a small cathedral, only with carpeting and geometric designs (& calligraphy). Very pretty. Got lots of pictures. The stained glass was pretty awesome.

Mittwoch, 3 September
Went to the Reichstag in the morning. Lovely view of the city, pretty cool architecture, and a fair amount of silliness. Also visited the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (or what's left of it). Actually went inside this time and got to see the beautiful mosaics on the ceiling. We then trekked over to Ka De We, which, as the largest department store on the continent or somesuch, features ridiculously expensive clothing and very expensive other things too (like imported American food, fancy chocolate of diverse varieties, and the apparent favorite beer of the UW Germanics department).

A very interesting account can be found here (top post at the time of this writing):
http://rachelschlechty.blogspot.com/

Please note that, while I had a significant role in the contents of the concluding sequence, a number of persons were involved in bringing that particular idea to fruition. Really. Furthermore, they were all completely sober at the time.

After group dinner (ever read a German-English-Spanish menu?), featuring excellent chocolate milkshakes but somewhat poor service, I went dancing again. Clarchen's Balhaus reminded me a lot of the Century (dance floor + restaurant combination). Very hard to get a dance partner (another similarity to the Century...), but still worth checking out at least. Also, routines that I know were on the schedule. I missed the Shim-sham (they did it to "Don't Mean a Thing" instead of "Tuxedo Junction" so I didn't realize that I knew the choreography until after it started). Did join in on the Jitterbug Stroll, however. Haven't done that one in a year, so it sort of showed (but, fortunately, it's called in English so I was able to get back right away). I have a hunch that they might have even played the Big Apple (being the only other well-known routine in my repetoire...).

Donnerstag, 4 September
Slept late. Went shopping with Rachel in the early afternoon (the second-hand store on Oranienstrasse was not as cool as anticipated); tried fig ice cream (it was an experience). Lecture on the differences in the German and American school system (hint: they don't have tuition for colllege). Attended a club under the trainstation at Alexanderplatz, but left early as the music really didn't suit my idiom. Had an adventure getting home as the U8 was randomly closed, with no posted detour route (it took me an hour and a half to go the equivalent of 2 subway stops...)

Freitag, 5 September
Turkish market! Really awesome place (like a streetfair, only with more fresh fruit and very inexpensive). There were also lots of cloth merchants, so I will definitely be returning next week with a partial project list (ots of nice stuff in decorator widths, generally priced under 2 euro a meter--pretty cool satins, organza, and even some brocades). Class trip to the gay museum was postponed at the last minute, so I ended up wandering around Mehringdamm and finding cool used book stores (and funny pizza!). We then attended a very post-modern interpretive dance show that seemed to be about body parts. Will need to write up my impressions soon for class on Monday, but let's just say that "confusion" is right near the top of the list.

Samstag, 6 September
Outdoor market day. I swear, I don't normally spend all my time shopping. Anyway, ventured out to Musueminsel, where there was a great arts & crafts/antiques/second hand books market. When you see a sign marked "Best of Communism"... Anyway, that is very much the place for old coins/postcards/antique silverware/random GDR schmau that I've thus far seen. Also went to Hackesher Markt, which was smaller, and much more of the "modern local artist" variety. Tried to go out dancing this evening, but could not find the location on Rudolfstrasse.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Of freak rainstorms, cheap pasta, and pajama parties.

Spent the day working on compositions at Humboldt (wall-group from the weekend presented this morning; retelling of Hansel & Gretel this afternoon). Highlights include Phil's dead-on mimicry of Toby's voice, Kristen taking pictures with her shoe, and the wicked-witch getting thrown under the U-Bahn. I got execute by guillotine (and then shot); I was also a bum on the subway. Elements to "recycle" for the final include full use of props and space, change of the pace of action, and careful attention to mannerisms.

Switched my individual topic to swing dance. Typed up my notes from Saturday night on the other computer; will transfer them here in the near future). Charted out places to go over the next few weeks (several venues available on most nights; need to determine which ones have the most swing, esp. when they list "Swing, Tango, Latein" or the like).

Went shopping for groceries, and ended up caught in a sudden downpour near Kottbusser Tor (about 6-7 blocks as the crow flies...). Did get very cheap pasta for dinner (and ice cream!). Grocery stores here, for all there wonders, do not have very good ice cream selections (the excitement stems from finding some ice cream that was not Haagen-Daazs pints, predominately vanilla). Have wanted a rootbeer float for some days; unfortunately, this country does not seem to believe in rootbeer. Es gefaellt mir nicht.

Finally almost dry. Guten Nacht!